Mode à Paris Federation Activities



I  HISTORICAL BACKGROUND AND COMPOSITION

The Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode was established in 1973. It derives from the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture created in 1868. Since 1935 its registered office has been located at 100 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8e.

The Federation is the executive organ of each Chambre syndicale and is run by the elected president Didier Grumbach, who continuously acts with the authority entrusted to him by the fashion industry.

The Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode is composed of:


* the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture (created in 1868), presided, like the Fédération française de la couture, by Didier Grumbach. Its members are the couture houses benefiting from the “haute couture” label. This label is a legally protected appellation which can only be used by couture houses which have been granted it. Such houses are listed on a decree issued yearly by a special commission of the Ministry of Industry. Jacques Mouclier is the Président d'Honneur of this Chambre Syndicale.



* the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode (created in 1973) which is composed of Couture Houses and Fashion Designers of women's ready-to-wear. Its President is Guillaume de Seynes (HERMES Fashion House) and Vice-President Nathalie Rykiel (SONIA RYKIEL Fashion House)and Ralph Toledano (CHLOÉ Fashion House)



* The Chambre syndicale de la mode masculine (created in 1973) and composed of the Couture Houses and Fashion Designers of men's ready-to-wear. The Président d'Honneur is Pierre Cardin, the President Patrick Thomas (HERMES Fashion House) and the Vice-President Christophe Caillaud (JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Fashion House).

Together with the 3 Chambres, the Federation has about 100 members.


The Fe deration represents companies owning brands famous world-wide and which are big exporters. A further specificity of the Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode is to qualify as « associated members » couture houses from Japan, Italy, Belgium, etc. showing thereby the growing internationalization of Fashion.

In addition, in 1975, the Union Nationale Artisanale de la Couture et des Activités Connexes [National Couture Craft Industry and Related Activities Union], which is composed of couture dressmakers established in different administrative departments of France, became a corresponding member of the Federation.


II  THE FEDERATION'S ACTIVITIES



A – To comfort Paris as world capital of creation


To reach that goal the Federation works out the following:


1 - Setting of the fashion shows schedules


Each year, in January and July, Paris hosts about 30 shows during the haute couture and 30 men’s wear fashion shows and again in March and October over a hundred women’s ready-to-wear fashion shows.
The Federation sets the shows schedules so avoiding time conflicts to enable both the Press and the buyers to cover the entire collections.

Since 1982, the Federation has been using prestigious places located in the very heart of Paris to present the shows: the Cour Carrée and Cour Napoléon in the Louvre, then the Jardin des Tuileries and later the restored Cour Carrée.

In 1994, the rooms of the Carrousel du Louvre were built after a project conceived at the initiative of the Federation, the latter being in charge of the management during collection time. Since then the Carrousel has been the central point from which the Federation sought locations close enough one from the other in order to save transportation time. As a matter of fact, the Federation provides journalists and buyers with transportation means to commute between the various fashion shows locations.

A collaboration has developed in order to organize the various show rooms exhibiting at the same time as the fashion shows and a co-ordination of the Milan and Paris schedules has taken place as well to ensure cohesion of the European presentations.

The schedule issued by the Federation is a strong visibility means for the brands as it is sent to some 2,000 journalists and to French and foreign buyers who currently attend fashion shows in Paris.

2 - Press list


Each season, a list of accredited journalists and photographers is made by the Federation for transmittal to its members only. This data base is then used by the houses for sending the invitations to their fashion shows.

3 - Reception and Information for Journalists and Buyers

On the occasion of the ready-to-wear fashion weeks in March and October, an International Press Center is installed by the Federation in the Hall des Fossés Charles V at the Carrousel which supplies information to some 800 buyers, 2,000 journalists, 400 photographers and other fashion professionals.

This center comprises a general reception and information sector with practical information on Paris (hotels, restaurants, cultural sites, etc.); an information sector on the professional show rooms; an interactive work sector with computer, phone, fax services enabling journalists to work on their articles.

To make this place even more attractive, the Federation together with partners organized theme exhibitions.

Lastly, to provide more information specially dedicated to the fashion industry, some communication tools were developed such as:

- Agenda & Contacts, the Federation official guide (edited in 10,000 copies).

- The Federation website www.modeaparis.com on which you find fashion shows schedules, press contacts, news, information listing about the Federation members.

- A Newsletter which is sent to the Federation members, journalists and various institutional partners like public authorities to report on the Federation’s activities.



B - To facilitate the development of emerging brands


To that end the Federation aims at:

- Increasing the visibility of new brands by progressively integrating them into the Federation schedules either in the couture or in the men or women’s ready-to-wear schedules;

- Providing them with presentation facilities at a preferential rate;

- Accompany their introduction to the main foreign markets;

The Federation organizes collective fashion shows in Tokyo, Beijing or Shanghaï.

These shows enable new houses to make themselves known on one of the main markets in the world as well as to get in contact with local manufacturers and distributors.

- Helping new fashion houses to find the necessary funding to allow development and solve their possible legal or management problems.



C – To establish synergies between the various actors of the Fashion Industry (buyers, weavers, subcontractors…) mainly by using new technologies


This is the goal of the project named “Mode & Technologie” which was initiated by the Federation and supported by the Ministry of Industry.

It deals with the implementation of a platform of exchanges on the internet named “Mode & Technologie” to reinforce the efficiency of commercial contacts between creative companies, their textile suppliers, the French manufacturers and their foreign clients, etc.

“Mode & Technologie” is mainly based on the tools developed by Lectra, specially on the infrastructure of their website “Lectraonline”. The project manager for “Mode & Technologie” is Laurent Raoul from XL Conseil. The purpose is to implement a securized tool for the different partners to work together and thus develop a network organization.

Furthermore, “Mode & Technologie” will allow companies to access new technologies under preferential conditions on both software acquisition and personnel training.

Each year since 1998, the Federation has been organizing International Conferences on Fashion and Clothing at the Villa Noailles within the frame of the Hyères Festival. Such conferences favour dialogue on subject of common interest between the various actors of the fashion industry. In May 2006, the conferences dealt with topics such as: Intellectual Property ; Fashion and Accessories ; European fashion and the international environment ; the Made In ;Fashion Creation and Internet




D – Defence of Intellectual Property Rights



Labels, creation, royalties, drawings, fashion designs and models: couturiers and fashion designers are frequently victims of forgery (illegal copies of their creations, counterfeited labels or illicit use of labels). These practices are detrimental to the entire fashion industry.

The Federation works closely with the government and all related public services to fight against any kind of forgery in France, in the EEC or elsewhere.



E – To develop training


Globalization and its subsequent sharp competition request more and more creativity from our companies, not only in terms of products but in terms of organization as well.

As a matter of fact, companies must be highly reactive to meet the requirements of the markets they intend to conquer.

Hence training becomes a “key element” of the companies’ development strategy.

Created by the Industry in 1928, l’Ecole de la Chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne, located in Paris 45 rue Saint-Roch, is part of the Federation and so under its influence for training matters.
In 2005, the Cercle St Roch implemented the procedure for the 4th year of the stylism-modelism training course to begin as of September 2005.

Cercle St Roch, created in 2004 and chaired by Sidney Toledano, is composed of Human Resources Managers of companies members of the Federation. This 4th year is free of charge for about 10 students selected by about 10 companies which are sponsoring and hosting them.

Thanks to a Partnership Agreement signed with l’Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, students are entitled -during the first quarter- to attend a “à la carte” programme chosen in the cursus proposed by the various sections of ENSAD according to each student’s specific need. This has to be defined by the student before integrating the hosting company for a long-run training course including development of a project to be validated at year end.
In parallel, l’Ecole de la Chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne hosts ENSAD students from their “Clothing” section for a programme on product knowledge.



F – To solve collective problems, to inform and advise the Federation members


The Federation is a place for discussion and consultation about collective problems of either social, tax or economical nature posed to its members.

So the Federation acts as spokesman for the Industry with the Government and public services on the one part and with trade-unions on the other part.

The Federation currently informs and advises its members on legislation and regulations concerning economy, tax and trade.

The Federation’s Management Committee has created 3 commissions in order to better apprehend problems caused to its members and to produce a reflection rooted in the business economical and social reality. They are as follows:


Legal Commission
, presided by Annick de Chaunac

Social Commission
, presided by Bénédicte Richard


and comprise specialists such as legal managers, human resources managers whose goal is to:

- draw-up legal tools such as license agreement, distribution agreement, general conditions of sale, trade description, etc… to be provided to the Federation members;

- prepare negotiations with both labor organizations and public authorities;

- lead lobbying campaigns on common interest matters with French and foreign public authorities.