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I
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND AND COMPOSITION
The Fédération
française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers
et des créateurs de mode was established in 1973. It derives
from the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture created in 1868. Since
1935 its registered office has been located at 100 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré,
Paris 8e.
The Federation
is the executive organ of each Chambre syndicale and is run by the elected
president Didier Grumbach, who continuously acts with the authority
entrusted to him by the fashion industry.
The Fédération
française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers
et des créateurs de mode is composed of:
*
the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture (created
in 1868), presided, like the Fédération française
de la couture, by Didier Grumbach. Its
members are the couture houses benefiting from the haute couture
label. This label is a legally protected appellation which can only
be used by couture houses which have been granted it. Such houses are
listed on a decree issued yearly by a special commission of the Ministry
of Industry. Jacques Mouclier is the Président d'Honneur
of this Chambre Syndicale.
*
the Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et
des créateurs de mode (created in 1973)
which
is composed of Couture Houses and Fashion Designers of women's ready-to-wear.
Its President is Guillaume de Seynes (HERMES
Fashion House) and Vice-President Nathalie Rykiel (SONIA
RYKIEL Fashion House)and Ralph Toledano (CHLOÉ
Fashion House)
*
The Chambre syndicale de la mode masculine (created
in 1973) and
composed of the Couture Houses and Fashion Designers of men's ready-to-wear.
The President d'Honneur is Pierre Cardin, the President
Patrick Thomas (HERMES
Fashion House) and the Vice-President Thierry Andretta (LANVIN Fashion House).
Together
with the 3 Chambres, the Federation has about 100
members.
The Fe
deration represents companies owning brands famous world-wide and which
are big exporters. A further specificity of the Fédération
française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers
et des créateurs de mode is to qualify as « associated
members » couture houses from Japan, Italy, Belgium, etc. showing
thereby the growing internationalization of Fashion.
In addition, in 1975, the Union Nationale Artisanale
de la Couture et des Activités Connexes [National
Couture Craft Industry and Related Activities Union], which is composed
of couture dressmakers established in different administrative departments
of France, became a corresponding member of the Federation.
II
THE FEDERATION'S ACTIVITIES
A To comfort Paris as world capital of creation
To reach that goal the Federation works out the following:
1 - Setting of the fashion shows schedules
Each year, in January and July, Paris hosts about 30 shows during the
haute couture and 30 mens wear fashion shows and again in March
and October over a hundred womens ready-to-wear fashion shows.
The Federation sets the shows
schedules so avoiding time conflicts to enable both the Press and
the buyers to cover the entire collections.
Since 1982, the Federation has been using prestigious places located
in the very heart of Paris to present the shows: the Cour Carrée
and Cour Napoléon in the Louvre, then the Jardin des Tuileries
and later the restored Cour Carrée.
In 1994, the rooms of the Carrousel du Louvre were built after a project
conceived at the initiative of the Federation, the latter being in charge
of the management during collection time. Since then the Carrousel has
been the central point from which the Federation sought locations close
enough one from the other in order to save transportation time. As a
matter of fact, the Federation provides journalists and buyers with
transportation means to commute between the various fashion shows locations.
A collaboration has developed in order to organize the various show
rooms exhibiting at the same time as the fashion shows and a co-ordination
of the Milan and Paris schedules has taken place as well to ensure cohesion
of the European presentations.
The schedule issued by the Federation is a strong visibility means for
the brands as it is sent to some 2,000 journalists and to French and
foreign buyers who currently attend fashion shows in Paris.
2 - Press list
Each season, a list of accredited journalists and photographers is made
by the Federation for transmittal to its members only. This data base
is then used by the houses for sending the invitations to their fashion
shows.
3 - Reception
and Information for Journalists and Buyers
On the occasion of the ready-to-wear fashion weeks in March and October,
an International Press Center is installed by the Federation in the
Hall des Fossés Charles V at the Carrousel which supplies information
to some 800 buyers, 2,000 journalists, 400 photographers and other fashion
professionals.
This center comprises a general reception and information sector with
practical information on Paris (hotels, restaurants, cultural sites,
etc.); an information sector on the professional show rooms; an interactive
work sector with computer, phone, fax services enabling journalists
to work on their articles.
To make this place even more attractive, the Federation together with
partners organized
theme exhibitions.
Lastly, to provide more information specially dedicated to the fashion
industry, some communication tools were developed such as:
- Agenda & Contacts, the Federation official guide (edited
in 10,000 copies).
- The Federation website www.modeaparis.com on which you find
fashion shows schedules, press contacts, news, information listing about
the Federation members.
- A Newsletter which is sent to the Federation members, journalists
and various institutional partners like public authorities to report
on the Federations activities.
B
- To facilitate the development of emerging brands
To that end the Federation aims at:
- Increasing the visibility of new brands by progressively integrating
them into the Federation schedules either in the couture or in the men
or womens ready-to-wear schedules;
Having the Invited Member status in the Couture Schedule
enables new brands -already patronized and elected by Couturiers- to
benefit from a specific media exposure in January and July, at the time
their models are commercialized by retailers.
Each season, a special heading of the Federation website called En
Avant-Première is dedicated to them where besides photos
and videos from the fashion shows, you can find a list of their retail
outlets.
- Providing them with presentation facilities at a preferential rate;
- Accompany their introduction to the main foreign markets;
The Federation organizes collective fashion shows or exhibitions in
Tokyo, Beijing or Shanghaï.
- Helping new fashion houses to find the necessary funding to allow
development and solve their possible legal or management problems.
C To establish synergies between the
various actors of the Fashion Industry (buyers, weavers, subcontractors
)
Each year since 1998, the Federation has been organizing International
Conferences on Fashion and Clothing at the Villa Noailles within
the frame of the Hyères Festival. Such conferences favour dialogue
on subject of common interest between the various actors of the fashion
industry. In May 2006, the conferences dealt with topics such as: Intellectual
Property ; Fashion and Accessories ; European fashion and the international
environment ; the Made In ;Fashion Creation and Internet
D Defence of Intellectual Property Rights
Labels, creation, royalties, drawings, fashion designs and models:
couturiers and fashion designers are frequently victims of forgery (illegal
copies of their creations, counterfeited labels or illicit use of labels).
These practices are detrimental to the entire fashion industry.
The Federation works closely with the government and all related public
services to fight against any kind of forgery in France, in the EEC
or elsewhere.
E To develop training
Globalization and its subsequent sharp competition request more and
more creativity from our companies, not only in terms of products but
in terms of organization as well.
As a matter of fact, companies must be highly reactive to meet the requirements
of the markets they intend to conquer.
Hence training becomes a key element of the companies
development strategy.
Created by the Industry in 1928,
lEcole de la Chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne, located
in Paris 45 rue Saint-Roch, is part of the Federation and so under its
influence for training matters.
In 2005, the Cercle St Roch implemented the procedure for the 4th year
of the stylism-modelism training course to begin as of September 2005.
Cercle
St Roch, created in 2004 and chaired by Sidney Toledano,
is composed of Human Resources Managers of companies members of the
Federation. This 4th year is free of charge for about 10 students selected
by about 10 companies which are sponsoring and hosting them.
Thanks to a Partnership Agreement signed with lEcole Nationale
Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, students are entitled
-during the first quarter- to attend a à la carte
programme chosen in the cursus proposed by the various sections of ENSAD
according to each students specific need. This has to be defined
by the student before integrating the hosting company for a long-run
training course including development of a project to be validated at
year end.
In parallel, lEcole de la Chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne
hosts ENSAD students from their Clothing section for a programme
on product knowledge.
F To solve collective problems, to inform
and advise the Federation members
The Federation is a place for discussion and consultation about collective
problems of either social, tax or economical nature posed to its members.
So the Federation acts as spokesman for the Industry with the Government
and public services on the one part and with trade-unions on the other
part.
The Federation currently informs and advises its members on legislation
and regulations concerning economy, tax and trade.
The Federations Management Committee has created 2 commissions
in order to better apprehend problems caused to its members and to produce
a reflection rooted in the business economical and social reality. They
are as follows:
Legal Commission, presided by Annick de Chaunac
Social Commission, presided by Chantal Helal
and comprise specialists such as legal managers, human resources managers
whose goal is to:
- draw-up legal tools such as license agreement, distribution agreement,
general conditions of sale, trade description, etc
to be provided
to the Federation members;
- prepare negotiations with both labor organizations and public authorities;
- lead lobbying campaigns on common interest matters with French and
foreign public authorities.
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